Logging On is a weekly sprint through the timeline — Raeland Mendoza filters the noise into his takes on fashion, media, music, and whatever is moving the needle.
Expect the weekly titular column, sharp personal essays, and guest features with industry friends.
Explore our latest columns, features and posts here.
I indeed was fucking around. I may or may not have thought today was Monday and in turn was going to publish this tomorrow.
On the other side of my personal universe, my other/smarter/better/ half Erykah finally published her first post on her Substack: MORE LONG TALK. I strongly recommend you giving it a read.
ANYWAYS - this week I’m covering creative residency scams, off the heezy, A Kind of Guise AW25, and a personal feature on returning back to my personal uniform.
LINKS:
Is the "Abstract Mag" Summer Residency a Scam?
The Client Rollercoaster: This would actually give me nightmares
I’ve been personally afflicted by “Off the Heezy”
FASHION:
A Kind of Guise AW25 is a masterclass on well rounded dressing
Polo, Our Legacy, Stüssy, and AKOG. I really do respect brands that can hit all the bases in a menswear based wardrobe (re: shirting, knits, trousers, suiting, + the occasional swervy statement piece) at the highest level while also maintaining a distinct point of view.
My fave TikTok right now: Clelaflare is bringing back Blog-era swag fits
In my heart of hearts, I still dress like this.
The SKIMS face wrap is scary (in a dystopian) sci-fi way
Also, according to this doctor, it doesn’t actually do anything.
MUSIC:
Someday - Miles Caton
His voice and performance was already undeniable in Sinners, but this stripped down piano ballad is a statement: Ladies and gents, we have a star.
Un(Folded) - Kehlani
The best R&B song of the year gets an unplugged remix.
Lovers or Friends - YG ft. Leon Thomas
Problematic bars aside, this G-funk cut that needs to be on your summer rotation.
In it With You - Craig David ft. Jojo
Forget Aubrey, the real OG biracial is here with a certified Facebook reels banger.
FEATURE: NO LOGOS, NO COLOURS, NO FUCKING AROUND
I broached this topic last week when discussing the BEAMS staff uniforms and their incredibly strong case for monochromatic uniform dressing. But I wanted to double down and say it with my chest: I’m going back to the old me.
In the past 6 months and change, I’ve: re-located cities, designed multiple collections for both a bejewelled rapper-flex brand and a new wave heritage workwear label, as well as closed the so-far largest creative and professional chapter of my life. All these changes have resulted in me loosening the grip of my personal uniform. Probably as a sub-conscious effort in defining who I was now.
I’ve since incorporated multiple striped button downs, and a grip of white tees and socks, and a new era fitted cap into the rotation. Considering how for the previous decade I only strictly used to wear shades of black (including socks, underwear, and leisurewear), this is a big jump.
The resulting variety has made me feel less self-serious. But now that I have my feet under me, I crave the gravitas I once possessed. My uniform wasn’t only a suit of armour protecting me with extraneous distractions - it was a structure, routine and regiment. It was a tangible manifestation of my creative perspective the world*.
Commentary on personal growth aside, as we approach this FW25 season I’m intentionally deciding on a return to form: faded blank vintage tees, workwear pants, a cashmere knits, practical outerwear and classic footwear. No logos, no colours, no fucking around.
To conclude: I’d like to leave you with shade of Black currently close to my heart. Black Coffee aka PANTONE 19-1111 TCX is both stoic and warm. And for that, it’s my current front runner as we move into the coming Fall/Winter season.
*This is probably the most melodramatic statement I’ve ever written here. And if you are wondering, Erykah laughed at me lovingly when I said “Gravitas”.
Amongst other things, Raeland is a Creative Director and Designer in Vancouver.
Explore his work at TOMORROW WORKS.